Useful hints and tips

Hints and Tips

These are some tips using commonly available materials....

Monobloc Top Ring

It's really easy to cross thread the top securing ring on monobloc and pre-monobloc instruments. The problem is that the securing clip tends to push the ring across to one side canting it over. This, combined with the fine thread and decades of wear means that getting it right can be a bit of a nightmare especially if the carb is nestling under the tank.




A simple dodge is to use a wedge to push the clip away from the ring thus making it free to rotate and much easier to get straight on the threads. Such a wedge has been handily provided by the manufacturers of sprung clothes pegs.



Holding bolts for saddle springs

The way of attaching sprung saddles to their springs must have been designed by a sadist. But there's an easy way to tackle this. First of all, get the bolt in position with the head downwards and the threaded section protruding through the eye at the top. Easily done with one of those magnets on a stick. Then wedge a bit of card between the coils of the spring and below the bolt head. This will hold it in position while you wangle the seat frame over it and get the nut started. Saves lots of cursing and skinned knuckles.



Getting the securing bolt on a Lucas dynamo brush cover in place

This can need at least 3 hands - one to squeeze the cover together, one to hold the nut in place and one to insert and tighten the securing screw. An easier way is to use a cable tie around the cover to pull its ends together and hold it in place (ensuring the cutout locates on the peg on the dynamo body). Then the screw and nut can be easily fitted. Then just snip the cable tie and chuck it away...




Holding the crank to tighten / slacken the sprocket nut

There are all sorts of ways of doing this, ranging from the barbaric - wedging something between the sprocket and the chain - via the ineffectual - putting the bike in gear and holding on the back brake - to the simply cruel - sticking something between the wheel spokes and hoping they don't break.

A better way is to use a sprag between the two sprockets. With the chain still in place, select a bit of mild steel or alloy bar that will fit at an angle between the teeth of the two.

Put the bar so that it is in compression when you try to turn the nut - here it is placed to tighten the engine sprocket nut (right hand thread). No need for giant hammers etc, a smooth steady pull is fine. This method won't damage the sprocket teeth or chain.

Note that on many bikes (this is a Norton single) there is a central bolt or tube that can make positioning the bar tricky. Ideally it would be at more of an angle to the horizontal.




The technique can also be used for final drive sprockets - this sprag is a bent bit of alloy bar I found in my scrap pile. There is usually a conveniently placed solid component to anchor it - it works very well against the brake pivot abutment. This position is to slacken the (left hand threaded) sprocket nut. Yes I've replaced the worn out sprocket!




You know how hard it is to hold a plug in position on the head when trying to check the spark? A moment's thought came up with this: a couple of large crocodile clips bolted together. One end clips to a convenient head fin, the other olds the plug base.


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